MY FAVOURITE #LFW MOMENTS SO FAR...
Good morning!
It's that time again, London Fashion Week is here! To celebrate the beginning of all things fashion (sore feet, no food, wet hair) I put together a little homage to my favourite moments from past seasons. All these photos have appeared on the Style Crusader before but I love them all so much that I think they deserve to be highlighted again. First up is a selection of some of my favourite people that I've shot on the cobblestones of Somerset House.
Next up are some of favourite personal outfits. They include everything from an impeccably chic red Iro jacket to a pair of Charlie May customized platform Doc Martens.
We'll round things off with the shows because that's technically why we're all here in the first place. My favourite will forever be Inbar Spector's AW12 show. It was impossibly beautiful and completely out of this world. A close second though has to be Meadham Kirchhoff's SS12 show. The balloons, the dancers... it was all completely over-the-top and utterly transfixing. Oh, and of course, the green sequined covered model at Fyodor Golan still holds a special place in my heart.
p.s. I am aware that hashtags don't actually work in blog titles but I'm getting in the social media mood, alright? Follow me on Twitter and Instagram for regular fashion week updates throughout the day.
THE BEST OF NYFW...
New York Fashion Week is drawing to a close.
It's been a wild week with some pretty outrageous shows. Some designers successfully pushed the boundaries of what it means to put on a fashion show (Thom Browne) while others made a scene by driving their models onto the catwalk in luxury cars (Opening Ceremony). Most of the collections I quite liked - one I really didn't (Betsey Johnson). So what can we take away from New York as a whole? Well, the thing that stood out most to me was the prevalence of black and white. Some of the collections showed nothing else while others injected small bursts of bright colour (Victoria Beckham). This is a look I love and will definitely be working into my wardrobe as soon as possible. Other notable trends included the use of strong geometric lines, draping, cut out details (especially on the midriff) and exaggerated volume. Not a whole lot of florals or pastels (except at Prabul Gurung). All in all an extremely chic and sophisticated look is pervading the catwalk. This is definitely something to be celebrated.
Catwalk photos from style.com and nature photos from here.
To view all my favourite looks from NYFW click here.
ON LOVING YOU SOLELY...
This is the only photo that really matters from the Topshop Unique show - it displays all the best bits of the collection. A swingy full pink sequined skirt bounces around and hits at mid-calf. There were lots of trousers that were exactly the same length (I want a pair, desperately). You can just see a hint of the jacket on the model's arm. It's an oversized slouchy number with sleeves that have been turned up. Cropped and wide, it's a shape that showed up on many looks from the collection and will undoubtedly be a popular fit come next autumn. Last, there's the shoes. Oh, the shoes. I love them dearly and have made a mental note of adding them to my imaginary shopping basket. They would do rather nicely on my feetsies comes next Autumn. I like the idea of wearing baby pink in the fall. Normally it's more of a spring colour but Topshop shows it deserves a place in winter too. I couldn't agree with them more on this.
Topshop, you've rocked my world once again.
MICHAEL VAN DER HAM AW13...
Shooting backstage at Michael van der Ham was serene. Everything was clicking away like clock work. The models had fake half fringes clipped into their hair and had dark moody eyeliner applied to their lids. I love seeing the clothes hanging on the rail and then seeing them come to life on the catwalk...
The collection was absolutely gorgeous. There were tops (see top right) with holes cut out of them. It almost looks as if some super powerful moths went to work on the fabric. My favourite pieces were the sheer tops (see top middle) with embroidery on them and the brocade pencil leg trousers. The show closed with three stunning dresses that would look killer on any red carpet. Michael van der Ham isn't a designer that I was familiar with before the show but since seeing this collection he's become one of my favourite London designers. *Collage photos from style.com*
Massive thanks to ebay for getting me backstage and for inviting me to the show.
DREAMY FLORALS AT AMINAKA WILMONT...
The first dress that cam sauntering down the catwalk at the Aminaka Wilmont show had my heart buckling. The peachy lavender shades were beautiful and the shape of the dress so flattering. I love the tiny thin belt that sits at the waist and the twisted detail at the hips. My favourite looks from the show were the ones that incorporated this melted flower print seen above - it's so dreamy and soft. I love that Aminaka Wilmont takes such a feminine print but puts it on edgier pieces. The little white biker jacket with the grey printed short dress was one of my favourite looks from the collection - it's definitely something I'd wear head-to-toe.
Massive thank you to Mercedes and Sarwah for inviting me along.
CHAINMAIL AT PACO RABANNE...
I'm normally not into super sexy clothes - I'd pick an oversized cashmere jumper over a skimpy dress any day.
With that in mind, I totally did not expect to be won over by the Paco Rabanne show. I had the chance to see the show when I was in Paris last week and, suprisingly, it totally blew me away. The chainmail detailing is used in such a clever way. I just wanted to stroke every piece that came down the catwalk - the textures are so alluring. I loved the long sleeved straight dress that was worn by Ruby Aldridge and all the footwear.
Full length images via style.com
FYODOR GOLAN SS13...
It's day 1 of London Fashion Week. Hurrah! I can't believe this time of year has crept around again already. First thing this morning I headed over to the Waldorf hotel to shoot backstage at Fyodor Golan. Last season it was one of my favourite shows so I was super excited to see what the design duo had planned. The styling and makeup was incredible. Each model had a tribal looking tattoo on her chin and many walked with larger-than-life transparent hats. It definitely gave the impression that some sort of glamorous alien race had invaded central London.
For more photos, including pictures from the show, hop over to Facebook.
Massive thank you to Susie and Rob at TRACE Publicity for having me backstage and at the show.
BE HAPPY...
Sequins tend to create in me an unavoidable gag reflex.
I just can't help it - I really dislike the shiny little things. Except, of course, when it comes to Ashish's sequins. His are glorious creatures. They sneak on to prints that never expected to be covered in glitz, transforming the most basic shapes into must-have drool-worthy pieces. The tie-dye print dress is the one item I cannot get out of my head from the AW12 show. Somehow, it manages to bottle up everything I love about the '90s. Totally simple but oh-so covetable. If it were mine I'd wear it so often that people around me would get sick at the sight of it. On days when the dress is getting a rest, I'll wear the biker jacket and face jewelry combination pictured above. You know, for when I want to be low-key.
Oh yeah, oh yeah... face jewelry and tie-dye is wear it's at.
INBAR SPECTOR
London will always be my favorite place to attend fashion week. Not because it's the fanciest or the most perfectly managed, but because it gives new designers the opportunity to showcase their work alongside the already established greats. I couldn't help but feel that I was witnessing something magical at this show.
Most people cringe at the thought of going backstage before a show.
The atmosphere tends to be incredibly stressful - space is precious and people are on edge. Every person adds to the madness and there are already so many people (make up, hair, stylists, PRs, models, designers, photographers, assistants) that any extras run the risk of tipping the whole operation into chaos. Oh, the fear of accidentally bumping into someone's arm as they apply mascara.
When I showed up at Freemason's Hall to shoot backstage at the Inbar Spector show the atmosphere was completely different. Everything seemed to be perfectly organized. No one was yelling or pushing and people knew exactly what they needed to do - the dramatics were entirely removed from the operation. Inbar even had time to plop down and get her hair done. Fingers crossed that next season there's time for me to have mine done too...
It wasn't until the models started getting dressed that I realized just how amazing the show was going to be. Sure, you can tell that an outfit is awesome just from seeing it on a rail but it doesn't really come to life until you see it on someone.
It was the Lara Jensen face jewelry that made me really excited. There was such a buzz and secrecy about it backstage that when I finally slipped out to take my seat I just about exploded onto the person next to me with giddy joy. 'It's going to be so good.' - was all I managed to say.
London will always be my favorite place to attend fashion week. Not because it's the fanciest or the most perfectly managed, but because it gives new designers the opportunity to showcase their work alongside the already established greats. I couldn't help but feel that I was witnessing something magical at this show... especially with being backstage beforehand. Inbar is clearly destined for great things and her autumn/winter 12 collection is just the start. I recently discovered that her previous collections are available to buy online. The metal tattoo dresses start at £350 and, while I realize this isn't pocket change, it isn't completely outside the realm of possibility either. They might not be the sort of pieces you'd wear everyday but they would look amazing for a special occasion or any occasion where you want to knock-the-socks off of everyone that sees you.
While I’m all for fashion that people can afford, there is something wonderfully alluring about investing in clothes that double as art.
Massive thank you to Susie at Trace for inviting me backstage and to the show.
HAUNTED BY A DRESS...
It's Saturday morning and I have friends visiting from London. I'm lying in bed hoping they don't wake up.
Not because I don't like them, of course, but because I've got to get this off my chest. It's been over a month since the Inbar Spector show and yet the collection is still at the forefront of my mind. This dress in particular has started to become a bit of an obsession. Compare it to Inbar's other work and you might call it simple, even rudimentary. Regardless, it's the reincarnation of a childhood fantasy - a grown up version of the sugar-coated dress I always imagined I'd wear on my wedding day.
It's modest and refined but, at the same time, achingly alluring. The high neck and long sleeves lend a feeling of austerity and formality. The sheer fabric is painfully pretty. It's so intricate and lightweight that it looks as though the slightest breath would make it fall apart. The body, by contrast, is full and exaggerated. Layers upon layers are stacked to the point of concealing the wearer. Her figure is hidden but she retains confidence and charm.
This dichotomy between seduction and strength isn't a new one. It is, after all, what many men will credit as making a woman most appealing - she is beautiful and yet independent. This is at the heart of 'masculine' dressing and exactly why so many designers this season have blatantly mixed hard elements with soft ones. It draws on the multi-dimensional character that exists within every woman. Conflating seduction and strength by making clothes that appeal to both aspects of one's personality makes for clothes that are far more interesting than those that cater to just one side. This dress does exactly that, it is concealed and yet also revealing. It is bold but at the same time discreet. It isn't everyday you find a single item that symbolizes everything you love about fashion but this dress does just that for me.
WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE...
Slouchy pajama shapes, menswear inspired outerwear, sheer lace and pops of bright orange. So far, so good... but nothing revolutionary.
It's not just what you show that's important though, it's how you show it.
The Paul and Joe AW12 collection brought together a world of influences from contrasting times in a way that felt painfully right. The jackets, in warm shades of green and brown, channeled an Americana Ralph Lauren vibe. While the floral print matching tops and trousers harped back to Celine's SS11 show. Don't take these references to be a criticism though. Sophie Albou gave them her signature French twist and they came out looking entirely new and fresh. There was a thread running through that hinted at Empire: fur, leopard print, African savannah landscapes - all an undeniable nod to British heritage. Blend that together with the sexy allure of the hottest Parisienne woman you can imagine and you've got the new Paul and Joe girl.
My favorite looks were the loose masculine inspired ones. Slouchy oversized trousers that sat low on the hips (offset by glittery belts?! even better), floral prints on the pajama style sets (a trend that was starting to feel overdone but now I'm looking at with new eyes), all the outerwear and the lace sleeved button back black blouse (whoa, try saying that three times in a row fast) worn by Ruby Aldridge. Other notable things? The little brown leather belts. So simple but so good. I haven't worn a belt in freaking ages but I want the one in the first image (so badly).
I won't lie, there were things in the collection that I didn't immediately jive with. It was a bit scared by the sequins - they will forever remind me of what girls wore when I was 12 to look 'fancy' and for that reason alone I will always struggle to come to grips with sequins. The leopard print was also an immediate concern. Before the show I was told one thing: 'There's lots of leopard.' I was expecting a D&G explosion of in-your-face sex-appeal. But instead got discreet leopard printed velvet blazers and loose trousers in an oversized version of the print. The latter, worn with a sparkly belt and chunky neutral knit made it as my favorite look from the entire show. That's saying a lot because Tuesday morning I would have bet my right arm I'd never want to stick my pins into a pair of leopard bottoms. I tip my hat to you Ms Albou, you made this California girl want to become French.
Massive thank you to Harriet at HPR London for hooking me up with a ticket last minute. xx
BURBERRY & WANG SITTING IN A TREE...
Topshop Unique AW12
The allure of the Topshop show is bizarre. Surely, there should be the least amount of excitement around it. It is, after all, a collection that will be sold on your very own high street. So the pieces that come floating down the runway need to be wearable and relatively inexpensive to produce. The margin for error is huge. Throw enough money at a collection and it's bound to be incredible but will anyone be able to afford it? When you have to make clothes that you can produce on mass scale... well, that's where it gets interesting.
There is always a huge amount of buzz around the Topshop show. First of all, the venue is 'off campus' (if we're referring to Somerset House as campus, that is) so it's more difficult to access. If you don't have a ticket there's no point in showing up. The security is intense and the organization runs like clock work. Have a seated ticket? You're quids in. You'll be enjoying the most delicious nibbles and sipping on juice while watching the hottest of celebrities walk in - through a separate entrance no less (a genius move as it eliminates a paparazzi frenzy outside). Lucky enough to nab a standing ticket? It's still worth showing up, just make sure you get there early. If you're at the front of the line then you're likely to get in. This is a show that starts on time and treats its guests well.
PHOTOS: Poppy Delveigne being photographed inside pre-show. Carrie Harwood outside the venue with a cute bunny ring and Oliva Palermo getting struck by the paparazzi.
Let's be honest though. While organization and the way a PR team treats its show-goers is undeniably important - the true success of any collection is judged on what we're all really interested in... the clothes.
As soon as the show ended I let out a giant sigh and said to the person sitting next to me, 'It's like Burberry and Alexander Wang had a baby!' A few minutes later when I regrouped with Shini and Susie by the door Sandra came walking over... 'Oooo, something felt very Burberry about it' one girl said. 'Yeah, but Burberry mixed with Wang!' cooed Sandra. Huh? Major déjà vu moment... clearly we were all on the same page.
It did feel reminiscent of Burberry (the colour palette) and Wang (the cool - 'I want to be her' - models off duty vibe) but in an amazing way. It felt grown up and sophisticated like the Topshop girl had just entered her late twenties. Maybe that's why it spoke to me so much - I felt like the collection was designed for me. Every winter I struggle with outerwear... I don't want to wear another cocoon shaped coat or a plain parka. With this collection Topshop has single handedly made the ankle grazing coat wearable again.
Not only that. The prints were delectable and understated - the little two-tone patterns with x's were my favorite. The knits were big and chunky but flattering - the sort of items you could throw on with a pair of skinny jeans (or slouchy jeans, or pencil skirt, or anything) and look effortlessly put together. There was a navy one that looked exactly like what I've been missing from my wardrobe plus an army green one that resembled animal skin (how did they even do that?). A velvet jumpsuit, leather dungarees, crossed back fastenings (I am all about back details right now) and oversized bags that resembled Phillips Lim's pashli (which I've been dreaming about for about 2 years) worn just tucked under the arm as an oversized clutch.
If I had to pick a single favorite item it would have to be the red and black checked dress with black harness layered over top.
Sure, there were a few pieces that weren't quite to my taste. I can't imagine, for example, wearing a pair of knee length wide shorts or a dress with the side cut out. Who's to say I won't change my mind by next autumn? It's always good to have your boundaries pushed. To those who say it doesn't quite fit with the 'Topshop clientele' - well, the show closed with a slew of little barely-there dresses. You know, the type you'd be likely to spot at clubs across the country on 16-24 year old girls. At first I thought they weren't for me, but actually... layer a long sleeved t-shirt underneath and pair with those to-the-knee boots (ohhhh, those boots... Topshop if you don't make those on mass scale I will actually die of sadness) and it's far more fashion focused. This collection will be successful and not least because there's something in it for everyone, from your gran right down to 12 your old niece.
Massive thank you to Liz and Susie at Topshop for inviting me along. I had a blast. xx
p.s. all my photos from the show are now on Facebook. Complete with psycho musings on each look. Enjoy.
ON BEING TRANSPORTED TO ANOTHER DIMENSION...
Although Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman described their Autumn/Winter collection as being inspired by 'Russian peasants, tzars and insects', for me, it was more about taking such earthly influences and transporting them to another dimension. Surely, there's nothing natural or human about a woman that's seemingly composed solely from green glitter?
Backstage the space was calm but meticulous. Green eyeshadow hinted at tones in the jewelry and alluded to the feathered martian-like creature I'd later meet. The hair was carefully braided into the most elaborate formations I've ever seen - like sci-fi crowns that rested on the back of the head.
Despite having an early peek at the collection backstage, in no way was I prepared for what was unleashed. It was the duo's first time showing On Schedule after having won the Fashion Fringe prize. They've worked with designers including Richard Nicoll, Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Issey Miyake. While it might be clear that these names have influenced their designs, it's undeniable that the vision driving the brand is clearly their own. It was the only show of the day that left me wanting to dance in my seat and, at the same time, gave me goosebumps...
View the entire Fyodor Golan AW12 collection here.
Massive thanks to Susie and TRACE Publicity for having me backstage.
Inspired by: Burberry Prorsum
Don't get me wrong, Summer is by far my favourite season. Nothing beats flip flops, wash-and-go hair, long days, and sunshine... but I can't get Burberry Prorsum's Fall 2010 show out of my head and it's got me dreaming about next season's wardrobe upgrades. Never before has outerwear led to such a stir within my sheepskin-craving-heart. If I happened to have a spare grand sitting around I'd throw it all away on Acne's gorgeous black aviator jacket. It's the stuff dreams are made of... since I spotted it in the their shop in Stockholm earlier this month I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. I want to wear it paired with a soft floaty sheer black dress like the one from Urban Outfitters and some chunky (but sensible) wedges. Gone are the days of me craving a pair of statement heels, that is... if it means I can squeeze my feet into these little Mentor beauties. Paired with some skinny jeans and an oversized khaki shirt? Fall 2010 sorted. All I need is the Patouf faux-fur to wrap around my neck and I'll be good to go. There we have it... my Autumn/Winter 2010 wishlist in a five piece mini-shopping basket. Done and dusted.