LUCAS NASCIMENTO ss14
You know that feeling you get when you go to a museum and you've been there for a couple of hours?You've seen so many paintings by incredible artists that you've become overwhelmed by it all. Your mind is a muddle and it has all melted into each other. No matter how breathtaking the next piece is it won't register with you - you've seen too much. At the time I didn't realize it, but that's how I felt when I saw the Lucas Nascimento spring 2014 collection.
You know that feeling you get when you go to a museum and you've been there for a couple of hours?
You've seen so many paintings by incredible artists that you've become overwhelmed by it all. Your mind is a muddle and it has all melted into each other. No matter how breathtaking the next piece is it won't register with you - you've seen too much.
At the time I didn't realize it, but that's how I felt when I saw the Lucas Nascimento spring 2014 collection.
It was my last show of fashion week. After five days, I'm pretty sure a parade of circus freaks covered in sparklers wouldn't have gotten a reaction out of me. Four months later and now the collection finally makes sense. It was elegant and paired back. There was a quietness and reserved atmosphere to the looks. They didn't try hard or demand attention, they simply were.
The models were intended to be in a state of undress. Some looked as though they had just stepped out of the shower and wrapped a towel around their waist. The colour palette was airy and ethereal with sherbet shades of orange and icy blues thrown in. Most of the fabrics were light and billowy but there was a selection of heavier leather pieces thrown in that added substance.
My favorite part was undoubtedly the simplest: spaghetti strapped tops that gently fell off the shoulder, thereby, creating the perfect undone feeling. That's definitely something I'll be adding to my box of tricks come spring. All the while knowing that it's not accidental but rather a nod to one of London's hottest new designers.
Photos by The Style Crusader.
Is it OK to use Pinterest as a source?
Ah, technology - too often you come in as a white horse but damage us in ways we'd never expect. While I've been a long supporter of Pinterest I've recently noticed a problem with the social networking site. It's not an inherent issue with the concept itself, but rather with the way people are using it.
Ah, technology - too often you come in as a white horse but damage us in ways we'd never expect. While I've been a long supporter of Pinterest I've recently noticed a problem with the social networking site. It's not an inherent issue with the concept itself, but rather with the way people are using it.
On Instagram I've come across lots of posts where people hashtag Pinterest as the source of their photos - often on images that could easily be mistaken as their own. The #inspiration and #pinterest tags are the only thing included to indicate it's not actually their feet in the photo or their view out the plane window. Is this OK? It's only made worse by the fact that often times the photos belong to bloggers that I know and they aren't getting credited. There are whole Instagram accounts that feature nothing but inspiration photos. Some of them have tens of thousands of followers and don't credit where a single photo comes from.
I'm guilty of having done similar things on this blog. When I do inspiration posts (like this one) there's a string of images and the source links back to my Pinterest boards. Each individual image also links back to the original pin it came from. But is this really an acceptable way to cite my sources or am I just as bad as the people on Instagram that stick in a cheeky #pinterest under their shot?
Tell me what you think. I'm on the fence on this one.
Photos from a selection on Pinterest.
// ON STICKING TO CLASSICS //
Sometimes I get bogged down with fashun.
My mind gets all cluttered with the idea of attaching sequins to water shoes or wearing socks with sandals. I get fixated on oversized coats and slip on shoes. I troll style.com and Pinterest, scroll through the endless pages of Net-a-Porter like a robot in a trance... looking, searching for the next great thing. Then I snap back to reality. I remember that in fact there are plenty of things in my closet that I love and can wear. I don't need to buy into any trends or get anything new because really what I love (and want to wear) are the classics - of which I have plenty.
Pea coats, Breton stripes, skinny jeans - these are my default items. Each season, regardless of what comes in and out of fashion, these are the pieces I wear over and over again. All I need to do is take off the jacket and swap the boots for Birks and, voila, I've got my summer uniform sorted.
Wearing: Gap jacket, Aubin & Wills jumper, 7 jeans, Balanciaga boots, American Apparel bag and Dolce & Gabanna sunglasses.
// A SPORTIER TYPE OF HAUTE COUTURE //
Times, they are a changin'.
When Lagerfeld had his army of top models run down a flight of steps, as they entered the venue of Chanel's spring 2014 haute couture show, jaws undoubtedly dropped. You don't run in couture, darling. Surely you step lightly, move slowly and stay far far away from red wine and spaghetti. Not so anymore. The new breed of couture wearers, according to Uncle Karl, can now embrace sportswear just like the rest of us. Thank god they don't have to dabble in New Balance or Nike though, these girls get their sneakers from the Chanel couture collection. They're crafted by Massaro and aren't made from cotton but instead feature python, pearls and lace. Best to avoid the puddles then, eh?
While the internet was alight with fascination over the brand's decision to mix sportswear with couture, the fine folks at Dior had actually done exactly same thing just the day before. Granted the statement wasn't as loud as it was at Chanel. Every model wasn't wearing trainers but a fair few of them were. Raf Simons took the movement even further than Lagerfeld dared, because why opt for conventional tennis shoes when you can embrace their even ghastlier brother: the water shoe. The fashion industry may have taken warmly to the trend for ugly flat footwear but, to date, these monstrosities have remained firmly in no man's land - until now.
Who would have thought it possible? Now, I'm considering investing in a pair of $18 Speedo Amphibious Zipwalkers so that I can rock a Dior inspired couture look too. Who needs Chanel when you can have do it yourself Dior, baby? All I need is a pack of sequins and some thread and I'm good to go.
Here's to hoping you'll join me in the movement.
Photos via Style.com
Should bloggers be at fashion week?
The same conversation has been going on since 2010 when the spark that lit the growing hatred towards bloggers at fashion week first set flame. No doubt, it was when Tavi Gevinson wore an oversized hat to a Dior show, thereby obstructing the view of everyone sitting behind her, that the anger really started to boil.
The same conversation has been going on since 2010 when the spark that lit the growing hatred towards bloggers at fashion week first set flame.
No doubt, it was when Tavi Gevinson wore an oversized hat to a Dior show, thereby obstructing the view of everyone sitting behind her, that the anger really started to boil.
It has been four years and, while we may have learned a few common courtesies regarding what is acceptable to wear on the front row, we are still having the same discussion about whether bloggers deserve to be at fashion week. The resounding answer that comes from within the industry is no. Shows are overcrowded, the atmosphere resembles a circus and, as a result, print media and buyers are incapable of doing their jobs.
Ultimately, it is the designer that suffers.
But bloggers are still coming to the shows and, these days, no one bats an eyelid when Susie Lau is positioned on the front row next to heavyweights like Anna Wintour or Suzy Menkes - as I'm sure you know, she is a blogger. This leads me to think that the debate we're having is misguided. The issue is no longer about whether bloggers should be allowed at fashion week. Instead we should be looking at which bloggers get to attend and what they can offer in return for their ticket.
This seems like a simple issue and one that PRs should have a firm grasp on. They are the ones who decide on ticket allocation so surely they have a systematic approach to dealing with bloggers. I contacted a number of London based PR teams who organize shows for fashion week and none were willing to comment on why they invite bloggers to shows or what they hope to achieve through sending them a ticket. I was told repeatedly that the issue was 'too sensitive' for them to weigh in on. But really it is rather straightforward. Do they look at stats? Social media following? Quality of content produced? Do they try to gauge their overall influence? No comment was given. Their insistence on remaining secretive hurts both the blogger and the designer they represent. If there was transparency regarding ticket allocation then bloggers would know what PRs deem important and could thereby act accordingly.
For print media and buyers there is a clear hierarchy regarding seat allocation but when it comes to bloggers it often feels random. In the past, I have been given front row tickets to shows by designers I have never supported or previously written about. Other times I've been denied access to shows that I've attended for years and repeatedly covered. I spoke to a number of bloggers and they all said they had experienced the same treatment. As a blogger, if you attend a show you are likely to feel confused and bewildered by seat allocation. The incentive to post about a show is reduced when you are on uncertain terms with the designer and their PR team. You are left wondering if they value your coverage or if you are just there to fill an empty seat.
To get to the heart of the issue regarding bloggers at fashion week I contacted a few designers directly.
In the same way I did with PRs, I asked them how they decide which bloggers to invite to their shows and what they hope to achieve by sending them a ticket. Everyone I spoke to was willing and eager to comment. None of the designers ranked blog stats as being an important factor when deciding whether to invite a blogger to their show. Repeatedly I was told that having a relationship with the blogger was of utmost importance. Nik Thakkar, for example, expressed a desire to establish long term ambassadors for his label Ada + Nik. Vin & Omi told me that one of the reasons they value bloggers is because of their ability to put their brand in touch with people who aren't part of the fashion industry but could become potential customers. Charlie May acknowledged that bloggers are key in creating instant buzz through social media but also recognized that for a blogger catwalk reviews often receive the least traffic. For her, it's also important that bloggers be seen wearing her designs because that's what helps boost sales. Each designer expressed an interest in having bloggers post about their show but only if they genuinely saw something they wanted to feature. There were also concerns raised about poor coverage coming out from bloggers that are unable to take clear photos or write a coherent review.
As far as I see it, there are two types of bloggers that should be invited to fashion week.
First, there are the ones that are 'online famous'. These are the big guns who often attend shows in every city and whose mere presence is good publicity for the brand. They are the equivalent of a celebrity except they have the added bonus of being social media savvy. They'll likely Tweet and Instagram live from the show. They'll probably hashtag FROW along with a photo of their designer clad feet next to the catwalk and that's great because it generates instant buzz. Second, there are the bloggers that are great 'content producers'. These people will Tweet and Instagram too, albeit to a smaller audience, but there is also the chance that they will post a show review if they identify with the collection. They will likely appreciate their ticket and, therefore, feel a loyalty to the designer whose show they've attended. Famous bloggers and people who can produce great content are rare in the blogging world but they are the people that need to be sought out and invited to fashion week. The others should be left out.
Designers, along with their PR team, should devise a strategic plan when it comes to allocating tickets to bloggers. They should think about the brand's image and what sort of person they want to be marketing to. This shouldn't be an afterthought and time should be allocated to properly think though it. Bloggers that are invited just to fill seats should be left out. The aim of a fashion show should not be to generate the loudest buzz but instead to create one that is well suited to the designer in question.
Photos taken by Jennifer Inglis at the John Rocha SS14 show.
SOCKS & SANDALS
Go ahead, call me a massive fashion victim. I'm pretty sure there's no way I can deny it now.
When I decided to wear socks and sandals out this weekend I thought I was channeling Miranda Kerr's September Vogue editorial. But I just looked at those photos again and, while she is wearing Birkenstocks, she doesn't have on any socks. Oops. I guess I missed the mark on that one. I'm not sure why the idea of wearing socks and sandals crept up in my mind as being a good idea. Ugly sandals are the look de rigueur at the moment so I suppose it only seems logical to take it a step further and make them even more hideous by wearing them with socks.
It's January and I somehow managed to go out of the house with bare legs. While it has been pretty mild lately I'm not going to lie and tell you I wore this on a warm day. It was 3 degrees. Obviously I got a few strange looks but, oddly enough, I wasn't actually that cold. It's amazing how little heat you lose from your legs. I think the huge thick knit helped. Anyway, tell me what you think, are socks and sandals a go or will you leave the look to fuddy-duddy tourists?
Wearing: Quiksilver coat, Weekday knit, & Other Stories bag, Zara skirt, Mykita glasses and Birkenstocks.
KTZ ss14
You don't have to look at the schedule to know which day KTZ are showing at London Fashion Week because the courtyard of Somerset House will undoubtedly be covered in members of their massive cult following. You can spot their tribe from a mile away - they are severe and uncompromising on their affiliation with the brand.
The spring 2014 show was inspired by Marjan Pejoski and co-designer Sasko Bezovski’s travels to North Africa.
Models were weighed down by heaps of traditional style Berber jewelry. This heaviness was contrasted by a medley of soft flowing fabrics covered in stark geometric prints and pretty florals. The collection offered an amalgamation of ideas but everything flowed from a tribal and nomadic core. The extreme urban aesthetic clashed with indigenous silhouettes creating a vibe that is unique to KTZ.
The surrealism and exaggeration were what drew me to the collection. Some of the models looked as though they were part of a futuristic society - one locked down by symbols and tradition. Torn between the desire to conceal one's own image and, on the other hand, exploit it. My favourite look, and probably the only one I'd wear directly from the catwalk, was the fourth. It featured a simple straight black dress that hits above the knee. Covered in large white geometric shapes, the pieces fit together like the parts of a puzzle. When paired with shoes boasting a similar pattern, the outfit is both simple and directional - exactly how I like it.
Photos by Jennifer Inglis. As always, click the images to enlarge.
How much Photoshop is too much?
It starts out harmlessly enough. Tweak the colour balance, adjust the light, change the contrast. Maybe you soften the skin, remove a pimple, brighten your eyes. Oh, that nasty scar you got when you were a kid? It kind of distracts from the overall beauty of the picture. You might as well remove that too.
It starts out harmlessly enough. Tweak the colour balance, adjust the light, change the contrast. Maybe you soften the skin, remove a pimple, brighten your eyes.
Oh, that nasty scar you got when you were a kid? It kind of distracts from the overall beauty of the picture. You might as well remove that too. Actually, come to think of it, your legs are looking a little pudgy and your bum is sticking out a bit. Might as well suck those in while you're at it.
Most of us have access to photo editing equipment. There's nothing wrong with using it. Every photo I publish on this blog gets a bit of tweaking before it goes live. I even run my images through some software before posting them on Instagram. Because why settle for reality when you can publish a romanticized version of it?
But there's a problem here.
Blogs and the people behind them are supposed to be different than traditional print media. We're supposed to represent normal people. But it's hard to settle for normal when you can so easily manipulate reality into looking a bit more perfect. If you're a blogger, you might have noticed that you are up against some tough competition. It's becoming increasingly common for bloggers to double as models and to work with professional photographers when taking outfit shots. The result? Pictures that look a whole lot more like they belong in a magazine than on a blog.
Do bloggers owe it to their readers to present a realistic picture of themselves? Is it OK to use editing software to improve images that go up on blogs? If so, how far is too far when it comes to manipulation? I'm sure we'd likely all agree that what I've done below (to the pictures on the right side) is taking it a step too far. But is this the direction we're headed in? If there's an increasing pressure for blog pictures to look as good as images that appear in magazines then is this not the next logical step?
By the way, I edited these pictures using a free app on my phone. No fancy skills required.
CÉLINE
Trust, I know this post will not win any awards for originality but nevertheless I felt the awesomeness of Céline's summer collection needed to be addressed. It was an explosion of colour and bold graphics. The long lined white wife-beaters with black painterly swirls surely make for the easiest DIY ever and one that even I might not be able to mess up. I wonder what this collection will do to all the girls that have embraced minimalism so whole heartedly with Philo as their leader. The bold primary colours were grounded by sturdy blacks and whites so at least that might ease the pain of the transition?
The reserved aesthetic that I normally associate with the Céline woman was thrown out the window. I normally picture her as being a bit of a free will with a penchant for the creative fields but now I see her as more joyful and comedic. It's like she literally crawled out of a cheery abstract painting.
To conclude, I'd just like to explicitly state that this is, by far, my favourite spring/summer '14 collection. And, I don't even care that I'm officially a massive cliche.
Photos via Céline
Oversized coats
I found this coat in a cupboard at my husband's parent's house in Sweden. It's too big. The shoulder seams droop too far down, when buttoned the shape is bulbous and awkward plus the sleeves are a bit too short. Nevertheless, to me it has a certain charm.
There's a cupboard at my in-law's house in Sweden that is full of strange treasures. It's where I found this killer hat and jacket combo for example. Somehow every time I visit it seems to be stocked full of new vintage gems.
This past trip I was rummaging through it when I came across an oversized tweed coat. My eyes widened and I yanked it out with greed. I ran to the room next door and flung it on over my snowflake flannel pajamas and did a little twirl in front o f the mirror. 'What do you think?' I eagerly asked my husband. His response? 'You look homeless.'
Undefeated, I went out to the kitchen to ask my mother-in-law if I could borrow it. 'Keep it,' she said, 'I got it for 6 pounds at a second hand shop and it's too big for me.' Exactly why I love it - it's too big. The shoulder seams droop too far down, when buttoned the shape is bulbous and awkward plus the sleeves are a bit too short. Nevertheless, to me it has certain charm.
Wearing: vintage coat, & Other Stories hat, 7 for all Mankind jeans, Celine bag and Vans.
The Issue of Age
The fashion industry thrives on our insecurities. Billboards and magazines are inundated with photos of beautiful flawless people draped in luxury and indulgence. You are designed to want what you see these images. Sometimes it's things, sometimes it's wealth and sometimes it might even be youth.
The fashion industry thrives on our insecurities. Billboards and magazines are inundated with photos of beautiful flawless people draped in luxury and indulgence. You are designed to want when you see these images. If you're anything like me, you want the perfectly smooth skin, the white teeth, the sparkling eyes. You want the thin waist, the straight nose, the full lips. You want that handbag that costs 2 grand. You want the life, the image, the feeling that is depicted.
And, the older you get the more you might want the youth.
Because, it's undeniable, the fashion industry is flooded with young blood. Sure, there has been a rise in the return of nineties supermodels. It's not uncommon to see Christy Turlington on the cover of a magazine and God knows you can't move for advertisements that feature Kate Moss. But the issue of age is such a problem within the industry that the CFDA's President, Diane Von Furstenberg, began asking for IDs from models at castings to ensure no one was booked that was under the age of sixteen. Sixteen. What place does a fifteen year old, fourteen year old, thirteen year old have displaying clothes at a fashion show that are designed to be sold to women. Women with curves and lumps that, likely, resemble nothing close to a teenager.
What a step in the right direction then is The Row's Pre-Fall collection which features Linda Rodin who is in her sixties. It seems a strange concept for a luxury brand to feature models that are, in most cases, far too young to afford the clothes that are being shown. The Row's target audience is not a teenager and so why should its models be that young? By contrast, Burberry's latest campaign features a grouping of fresh talent that are as young as sixteen. While there is no denying the fresh-faced charm of Jean Campbell, I would have rather liked to see a slew of more aged British heavyweights donning those iconic trench coats instead of a bunch of high-schoolers.
Take note world, Mary Kate and Ashley have struck a chord with this one.
Images via Style.com
// A SQUARE LOOK BACK //
This past year hasn't been the easiest one.
In mid 2012 I got sick. As part of the recovery process I was put on a heavy dose of medication which I had to take for a year. It was pretty intense. It made me feel drowsy and down. I lost motivation and drive. Things I would normally be excited by didn't interest me and as a result of the whole experience I lost a lot of self-confidence. This past June I was taken off of the medicine and I, optimistically, hoped that I would bounce straight back to my former self. That didn't happen. Although I was technically 'better' I didn't feel entirely that way. It has taken the last six months for me to get back to normal. Now, a year and a half after the incident I finally feel better.
There is still one major side effect from the medicine that I'm battling: weight gain. Over the course of a few months I put on thirty pounds. Most of my clothes no longer fit. If you've been reading this blog for a while you've probably noticed that the content has changed slightly - outfit posts have been rare. Lately I've been making an effort to reintroduce them, though it's tough as I don't have many items in my wardrobe to play with. Please don't get me wrong. I'm not technically overweight but this is the heaviest I've ever been and that has taken some getting used to. With the start of the new year one of my resolutions is to take back control of my body. I'm determined to lose the weight in a healthy way.
Usually I do a post at the end of the year looking back at all the best moments and it tends to feature lots of outfit pictures. This year I can't do that as there have only been a handful of them.
When I was thinking back on the year at first I felt a bit despondent. It has undoubtedly been tough. But then I decided to do a little Flipagram on Instagram - to collect all my favourite photos from the past year and put them into a little slideshow. When I went through them I was totally blown away by how great a year I've had. Zurich has been beautiful. I got to travel a lot and visit London, Berlin, Portugal, France and Sweden. I visited New York, shot four weddings with my sister in St Louis, and went back to California for the first time after eight years of being away. I'm lucky to be surrounded by great people and I'm even luckier because I have my health.
That is the thing that stuck out to me most - how very blessed I am to be starting a new year healthy. Wherever you are and whatever you are currently facing, I hope you feel optimistic about the year to come. Great things are headed your way.
All photos from Instagram.
LONG COATS
It was exactly eight years ago, shortly after I'd moved to Oxford from California, that I went back home to the states in search of a winter coat.
Having grown up in hot climates I'd never really had a proper coat before and I wasn't sure what kind to get. So I headed to Burlington Coat Factory in search of a bargain with my mom and settled on this ankle grazing Bill Blass number. When I got back to England I wore it out for the first time and instantly realized I was massively out of place. No one my age was wearing long coats... I felt like an utter muppet and vowed to never wear it again.
Then this winter rolled around and suddenly long coats were hot on my mind. I think it was partially due to this Pinterest board which features oodles of saucy chicks rocking long coats to perfection. I searched all over my flat until I found the coat at the bottom of a box in my storage room. It was crinkled and covered in fluff. I put it on and looked like an absolute mess but vowed to clean it up and make it work. Since then it has been the only thing I've been wearing whenever I leave the flat. Although haven't seen anyone my age wearing this sort of coat around Zurich I don't mind being a bit out of place anymore.
Wearing: Bill Blass coat, Gap hap, Acne jeans, New Balance sneakers, Lilifi clutch, Zara jumper and vintage stole.
En Soie, Zurich
When you wander into En Soie you enter a magical little trove of treasures. The store is packed full of treats and is a bonafide Zurich gem. Since 1894 they've been producing handmade items, all designed in their atelier which is situated just up a cobblestoned road next to the store.
When you wander into En Soie you enter a magical little trove of treasures. The store is packed full of treats and is a bonafide Zurich gem. Since 1894 they've been producing handmade items, all designed in their atelier which is situated just up a cobblestoned road next to the store.
If you pop into the shop you'll find racks of quirky clothes, a wall covered in scarves, cosmetic pouches, table wear, shoes, jewelry and pretty much anything else you could desire. At the moment it's decked out in full on Christmas cheer - with a tree and a table laid out as if guests should be arriving any moment for a feast. The staff are super friendly and you might even spot the resident dog lurking about if you're lucky.
My favourite part though is a little secret situated at the back. The first few times I visited I didn't even notice it was there. There's a small staircase right next to the fitting rooms that goes down into a cellar. There you'll find a tiny little alcove filled from floor to ceiling with hand painted pottery. They've got everything you could need - checked dog bowls, plates, egg cups, massive vases and even adorable little ornaments shaped like sheep.
If you're ever in Zurich make sure to stop by En Soie, it's a must see in the city. Bypass the cheesy tourist shops and instead buy something special in here, you're sure to love it for years.
En Soie is located at Strehlgasse 26, Zurich 8001.
lfw
Remember a couple of years ago when we discussed the future of street style?
Well I'm glad the trend for erecting studios outside of fashion shows didn't catch on - I much prefer the stone buildings that make up Somerset House.
These are just a few shots from London Fashion Week that I took back in September. I've noticed that I'm most drawn to people with unusual style and boys with gold chains. I like people who are a little quirky, don't take themselves too seriously or come decked out in trends. Too many street style photographers chase famous faces and 'it' bags.
That's not my thing.
Despite the aggression directed towards street style photographers at fashion week it's still something I like taking part in. I try to avoid the scrambles that take place around editors and instead focus on people who aren't 'street style stars'. I feel like the same faces pop up on every street style blog and that's a bit boring. So here's to hoping I can add a bit of variety to the mix.
Photos by Jennifer Inglis